Thom Browne汤姆·布朗男装中国首家专门店侨福芳草地新店开业

如果说Hedi Slimane以细身剪裁颠覆了当代男生线条，THOM BROWNE则是把全球男生的裤子都修剪至脚踝之上。1965年美国出生的THOM BROWNE是极少数能以美式传统剪裁影响着整个男装界的设计师。2006年赢得了Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA)的年度男装设计师一奖后更是令每一季的设计都创意有余并经典不断。

If Hedi Slimane is credited for changing the silhouette of contemporary menswear with his slim cuts, Thom Browne must be credited with cropping men’s pants to above the ankles. Born in the U.S. in 1965, Thom Browne is one of the few designers who totally changed menswear with his traditional American tailoring skills. The recipient of CDFA Menswear Designer of the Year Award in 2006, the designer has managed to surprise us with creativity and classic designs every single season.

Thom Browne汤姆·布朗男装的设计风格正是他的个人穿衣之道，他钟情50年代的西装剪裁，永远妥帖的发型，窄长领口的三钮短身西装，不过手腕的微短袖口，外套的腰间开义口，刚落在脚踝之上的裤管，没有皮带圈的高腰西裤，相同衬布的领带，银色领带夹，button down恤衫，黑色礼服皮鞋，这些元素和著名的红白蓝三色永远都可在他的创作中找到，却又每次都有不同。

His designs fully reflect his personal fashion style. His favourite 50’s style suit cuts, impeccably well-groomed, 3-button suits with narrow collars, cropped sleeves that reveal the wrists, a slit at the waist of the jacket, trousers that barely reach the ankle, high-waisted trousers without belts, ties with the same lining, silver tie clips, button down shirts, and black dress shoes along with the colour palette of red, white and blue are elements that frequently surface in his designs – these seemingly similar elements always manage to look different.

拥有大批粉丝的THOM BROWNE与I.T首次合作，在芳草地内开设了首家THOM BROWNE专门店。店面设计保持了设计师一贯的风格，无论是水磨石地面、灰色云石墙面、百叶窗，还是配套的怀旧家具，都将品牌招牌式的美式怀旧气质展露无遗。

Now the incredibly popular THOM BROWNE has teamed up with I.T and opened its first store at Parkview Green. The store, maintaining the consistent design style of THOM BROWNE stores, features polished flooring, gray stone walls, blinds, and nostalgic furnishing, all reflecting its signature American retro ambiance.

2016秋冬服装秀

2016 Autumn/Winter Fashion Show

AW16 以“怀旧”这一主题，设计师脑洞大开并安排开场的双胞胎模特进行走秀，奠定了秋冬系列如镜中人间的虚幻氛围。为什么西装——或是纽扣衬衫配上领带，在一百多年之后依旧成为潮流？这个晚上，THOM BROWNE意图将他的秀场还原成一个世纪以前的华盛顿广场，这正与他设计的男士西装自然旧的风格相得益彰，他再一次从中吸收灵感。

The AW16 collection takes the theme of “nostalgia” and opens the fashion show with twin models, setting the tone with contrasting virtual and real images. Why is the suit still trendy after more than a century? On this night, THOM BROWNE takes us back to Washington Square about a century ago, a perfect setting for his tailored suit. Once again, this is the source of his inspiration.

细节也充满了闪光点，破洞以及毛边的细节元素被大量的运用，再配合以格子，条纹等成衣表面的处理，既保留了品牌正装方面的一贯剪裁特点又加入了只属于这一季的时尚特质。成衣颜色方面，设计时使用了品牌的经典色调，以黑，白，灰以及海军蓝为主体的色调不仅突出了品牌特色，也让本季的成衣看上去低调中又不失奢华。

Detailing is also a highlight of his designs, including cutouts and fringed details, finishing touches on check and stripe fabrics. He adheres to his traditional suiting skills while adding seasonal fashion elements. He incorporates his classic colours with black, white, gray, and navy blue to make the pieces discrete but luxurious at the same time.

已经将西服处理到得心应手的设计师本季更是将这一特点扩大化，让人们再次看到品牌对于西服的独到理解。系列中的下装同样值得关注，更多的直筒以及宽筒剪裁的下装出现在秀场中，同样的被赋予了本季具有特色的破洞等元素，卷起裤管，达到九分裤的效果，在呼应当下潮流搭配的同时继续保持品牌特色的成衣面料与剪裁，与时俱进又极具特色。

The master in suits has highlighted the details of his well-placed cuts, allowing us a better view of his deep knowledge of the suit. Trousers include more straight pants and loosely cut ones. Again, they are adorned by cutoffs and cropped lengths. Made in fabrics and cuts that are fully Thom Browne, these pieces are trendy at the same time.  

另外，经典依旧传承，本季经典三色旗以及四道杠单品依旧延续，狗狗图案元素的加入使得本季的基本单品更加的活泼生动并不失时尚感，经典单品中也加入了不少鲜艳的颜色。

The trademark tri-coloured flags and 4 stripe elements continue this season. The new addition of puppy prints adds a trendy touch to the basic pieces. There are also more bright colours in the collection.

今季THOM BROWNE的设计把“复古”和“运动”两种美学融合。设计师在品牌经典单品中带出复古校园风，将格纹条纹等各式图样加入其中，或以校园色调撞色拼接加以点缀，个性的混搭迭穿时而帅气时而甜美。混合男装元素，如塑料质感的漆皮，标志性的打褶技术，夹克的松紧袖口和腰带的礼服让女仕们穿上去除了优雅,还有不一样刚强的特别味道。

For the women’s collection this season, THOM BROWNE blends “retro” and “sporty” together. The check patterns, stripes, and preppy colours are patched and mixed to create sometimes cool sometimes sweet looks. Mixed with elements from menswear such as patent leather, pleating, ribbed cuffs and belted dresses, the women’s pieces are elegant but strongly distinctive.

THOM BROWNE的设计永远都是带有深深的哥特式风格，这一季以织锦、拼贴等工艺，拼凑西装元素，玩味的比例，打造出超现实的效果。设计师利用精致手工的布艺，分层提花，羊毛和绒面裙，长的斜纹软呢和珠皮呢套装散发出高级时装的气息。一贯的外套剪裁，合身的剪裁能修饰身形。 特别推介今季长身的大衣可搭配简单的白衬衫，配及膝半裙。

THOM BROWNE’s designs are always deeply goth. Brocades, patchworks and playful proportions create a surreal effect. But the skillfully crafted fabrics, layered jacquards, woolen and velvet skirts, long stripe tweeds and other fabrics also add a touch of luxury to the look. The well tailored jackets are fit and streamlined. Noteworthy pieces include the long coats, simple white shirts, and the knee-length skirts.

今季更多了THOM BROWNE全黑皮革制品及设计师腊肠小狗Hector手拿包，当然不少得品牌特色的红白蓝作点缀。经典皮质网球鞋亦是整体造型不可缺少的单品，今季还出了黑色绑带鞋，充满城市运动的气氛，品牌特色的红白蓝也出现在皮鞋上。

Leather sneakers are also must-haves of the season. This autumn, the sneakers come with black laces for an urban touch. Signature red, white and blue also emerge on the shoes. Other new items include brand new all-black leather shoes and the Hector clutch, again with the red, white and blue colours.

鲸鱼图样是本季其一大主打，出现在不同单品上面。有领带细节的衬衫非常百搭，可配同系列中不同样式的外套及百折短裙，带出特别的校园风格。系列当然有品牌著名的黑,灰色设计, 再加上间条纹于设计当中。

The whale is a key pattern, appearing on various pieces. Shirts with tie details are very wearable, going well with different jackets and the pleated skirts for a preppy touch. And of course, there are also the signature black and gray pieces as well as striped pieces.